icesweeper

asked Apr 17, 2008 at 7:33pm
Hp HP Color Copier 150

HP IIID AC Power Supply/ 50 error

Getting 50 error. Checked out fuser, ok. Swapped out AC PS, error code went away. However...., the old PS cooling fan was working. The replacement fan is not. It smells "hot", and I don't want to ruin anything in the fuser. Swapped fans, no luck, so I must have something bad in the power to the fan.

IF I swap the small PCB on the AC PS, where the fan plugs in, will that do it, or is the "usual" problem with AC PS' on this board?

Or can I just run the printer, short term?? We usually leave it off, fire it up, run off ~150 pages, then off again for another week. Don't want to cause long term damage to the fuser.

I'd order a AC PS kit from Moe, but I need this printer up and running asap.

TIA,
Older power supplies had a fan that ran only at print. Newer ones had a fan that ran at idle all the time and went to high at print.
by moe on Apr 17, 2008 at 7:58pm Add comment
Pull the top board from the PS. Most of the upper board failures (95\% or more) is either a leaking capacitor (usually blue or lime green) at the position marked C153 or connectors loose. Disconnect the cable that plugs the top board to the base and slightly tighten by moving in the connections on the cable side. This could be your problem. Also take a look at your old upper board and the new one. Remember there are 3 versions of upper boards in the HP2/3 series. The bottom board on all HP2 and HP3 series are the same. HP2 series Part number on the board is RG1-0714. HP3 series can either have RG1-1438 or RG1-2546. The "1438" board is the better of the HP3 series. The difference in the HP2 and HP3 being that the fan stays on all the time on an HP2 series and only when needed on the HP3 series. HP3 will install well into an HP2 but the older HP2 doesn't work in the HP3 series. If you find that the connection tightening doesn't work, run down to your local Radio Shack or similar and buy a capacitor 25v, 22uf. Should be under a buck. We used to buy them by the hundred lots at 8 cents each. Desolder the capacitor and then clean the board with dish soap or simple green or such to remove the leaking fluid found around the base of the capacitor. Simply dry the board well with a hair dryer or airdry a couple hours and resolder in the new capacitor. Pay attention to the polarity. The board is marked for the positive side of the connection and the capacitor is marked on the negative side. Make sure your + to + and - to -.

Good Luck and Hope that helps you.
by Anonymous on Apr 17, 2008 at 8:25pm Add comment
Thanks to both of you. I reinstalled everything and the fan does come on when printing, so I'm good to go.

Much appreciation, Tom
by icesweeper on Apr 18, 2008 at 5:49pm Add comment